Jan
7
Slab society is composed mainly of fraternal fringe dwellers scattered about the globe. Because of tribal and regional disparities, some locations are more vague than others, some caveats more dreadful than others, some surfers more receptive than others.
Galicia is somewhere in the middle of all that.
Boasting the largest swell window in continental Europe and a jagged, indented 1000-mile coastline of mostly shallow rock seabed, this autonomous Spanish nationality was once nicknamed the “the End of the World” by the Romans. But today, Galicia represents a new frontier in the ever-thickening Story of Slab — one that up until now has accommodated only a few men who’ve dedicated a significant chunk of their lives to defusing the detonators firing beneath this rainy, windy biosphere of surreal beauty.
“The potential for giant waves in Galicia is simply immense,” says Pedro Liria, a civil engineer who works in Marine Dynamics and Operational Oceanography of the Marine Research Division at AZTI-Tecnalia. “Granite cliffs dominate the capes and islands with a large crowd of low, rocky partners that emerge abruptly in the middle of much deeper water. The little continuity and steep slopes of these formations are what make the mutant slabs — very concentrated and dangerous waves, breaking almost dry.”
However, word of Galicia’s potential has circulated rather slowly, and not because of clandestine snobbery. Rather, forecasting specific weather conditions to align with the reef bathymetry and irregular topography of a coast skirted by cliffs, valleys and the region’s trademark rias remains a daunting task, even for seasoned meteorological gurus.
“Galicia is full of empty slabs, but it’s a really quiet place without many surfers,” asserts accredited European surf photographer Eric Chauché. “It’s a very powerful place, full of nature, and requires a humble approach.”
Over the last two years, Chauché has witnessed and played photographic messenger for the birth of several Galician slabs spearheaded by a Basque team of big-wave specialists — the most revered is none other than the prince of big-wave surfing in Spain, Asier ‘Axi’ Muniain.
“Asier is from the birthplace of Basque surfing, Zarrautz, and his team discovered six incredible waves in a 20-kilometer zone of a 650-kilometer coastline,” says Chauché. “From the beginning, he has followed the spirit of his master, Ibon Amatriain, who opened up a lot of the big waves in the area. He’s a true ambassador, charging new places to paddle and tow: Playa Gris, Agiti, Roca Puta, La Vaca, Belharra and, of course, Galicia. Axi is the guy.”
A perennial finalist in the Billabong XXL Big-Wave Awards and the 2011 winner of the North Canyon Tow In Contest at Nazare, Axi’s cavalier rep has transcended slab scouting. But lately, nothing’s proved more fascinating than Galicia’s ominous Costa da Morte, aka “the coast of death,” which accounts for 927 recorded shipwrecks (150 in the last 150 years).
“After many years of passionately pursuing big waves,” remembers Axi, “I began searching for a place without precedent. And today, I can say that we’ve found such a place — a coastline as remote and hostile, as it is purely charming and magical. The Costa da Morte possesses a great biological wealth of protected flora and fauna species and a rich marine ecosystem.”
Galicia’s rich and varied north and west-facing coastline out there on the tip of Europe accounts for its diversity of surf. “In terms of waves, the Galician coast is a succession of capes, islands and low beaches,” Axi says. “The window is immense and swells generated at any point in the North Atlantic can reach these shores, providing many options.”
BATHYMETRY
“The vast majority of this coastline consists of igneous granite rock,” says renowned English surfer and big-wave discoverer Tony Butt, a Marine Science graduate from the University of Plymouth who holds a PhD in Physical Oceanography. “This tends to form extremely uneven bathymetries, resulting in very sudden depth transformations and waves that form highly concentrated peaks or suck out onto almost dry rock — more suited to bodyboarding when small, or perfect for tow-surfing when big.”
One Costa da Morte spot that’s captivated stand-ups and boogies alike is actually two separate waves breaking 150 meters from each other. And unlike most of the world’s discovered slabs, both of these spots offer rights and lefts. One almost always breaks (and is much slabbier, according to sources), while the other only turns on with larger swells. Being the first surfer to tow in here at a proper 20-foot plus granted Axi naming rights.
It now bears the name “The Wave of Eli”, after Axi’s girlfriend — a sweet gesture aimed at thanking her for the patience and attention she’s given Axi throughout his demented lifelong quest.
“It’s aggressive, brutal and dangerous,” says Axi, “due to the fact that it’s surrounded by very deep water and is highlighted by radical changes in water depth. Some waves die in front of the rocks, while others are surfable. It’s very fragile in terms of its variables, and requires very specific conditions — documenting it has not been easy. On days when there’s no wind, fog can be present, making it difficult to navigate.”
FIRST SURFED/HISTORIC CREWS
During the Winter of 2006-07, a perfect storm with 25-foot seas hit the Galician coast. After driving in a van all night and sleeping only 45 minutes, Axi awoke in a remote, deserted beach protected by spectacular dunes. Climbing up one of the bigger ones to view the size of the surf, he couldn’t even see the base of the waves as a massive set swallowed the beach, a wooden bridge, and marched upriver towards the van, where Axi’s partner slept. The men were able to escape in time to check different spots, finally opting for a wave breaking off an islet, known as “Atain.”
This would ultimately be one of the most impactful sessions of Axi’s life, where he confirmed what he’d been looking for: “the mutations.” Axi shared the results of his findings with another local team who had visited the area, Dani Gambón and Sergio “Queco” Calaza, and a formal information exchange ensued as all parties continued to monitor and explore Galicia’s slabby potential while meshing with local fishermen and boat captains to expand their knowledge and safety net. And while there are other teams exploring the area, six years later, their habitual reconnaissance and symbiotic dialogue continues.
“Between the locals and Dani and Queco and the only computer we had, we were able to share our experiences,” says Axi before reading off the usual suspects. “Often I explored alone; other times I was accompanied by several friends: my girlfriend Eli, Jérome Sahyoun, my brother Igor Muniain, Pablo Garcia (Bon), Palotes (Ilussions Surfboards), Koala, Greg Rebellac, Fred Berho, Walter Lang, Eric Chauché, Ofman, Mikelo, Ibon Amatriain, Mikel Agote, Bonilla, Joseba and Martín Arguiñano, Juan Hernández, Juan Fernández, Patrick, Aritz Aranburu, Indar Unanue, Xoxe Juan, Felipe, David, Joxe, etc… And the relationship with all the local people has been wonderful from the beginning. Their kindness and hospitality has captivated us.”
RIDING STYLES
“It’s the same thing with slabs here as any other continent,” adds Axi. “The surfer should be able to anticipate the wave and position himself at the base curve before and under the lip — or lips — so the radical suction doesn’t pull him up toward the top. Then he must draw a line that’ll deal with sudden changes. The jet-ski driver has a great deal of responsibility, too, because he must launch the surfer against the peak — directly into ‘the mouth of the wolf’ — with enough speed to position himself, set his line and cross through the most dangerous part of the wave.”
THE FUTURE
“It is now all about who takes responsibility to preserve the balance between a place with international potential, and the publication of it,” says Axi. “In the last five years, our team has found more than 20 slab or XXL-type waves along the 1500 km of coastline, three-quarters by our own means. It is still incalculable how many surfable mutants the Galician coast offers. But between the difficult access, and all the hazards, it will take many years before they’re all discovered.”
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