Either way, reds made from mencia are very fashionable right now – just watch them whooshing into the UK from the wine regions of Ribeiro, Ribeira Sacra, Valdeorras, Monterrei and especially trendy Bierzo. It’s inland from the Atlantic, and not as impossibly hot as some parts of Spain. That explains the perky acidity in these mouthwatering reds, not too heavy and versatile with food (perfect for cured meats).

The grape harvest gathered on the slopes in the Spanish region of Ribeira SacraGrapes are grown on the slopes of the Sil river in the Spanish region of Ribeira Sacra  Photo: GETTY IMAGES

And they’re made by some of Spain’s most exciting winemakers right now, such as the young and dynamic Veronica Ortega and the long-bearded and talented consultant Raul Perez, regularly described as the region’s “wine wizard”.

Names to look out for, but where to find their wines? As well as those below, there are good mencias to be had at The Wine Society, Berry Bros Rudd, Great Western Wine and even Asda, among others.

Time to catch the new wave of northern Spanish reds.

Try these

El Castro de Valtuille mencia wine

El Castro de Valtuille Mencia Joven 2013/14 Bierzo, Spain (Yorkshire Vintners, £10.20, and other independents)

A youthful, quaffable wine, dark purple and full of fragrant cassis and cherry, one to pour with a charcuterie board.

Valdesil Valderroa mencia wine

Valderroa Mencia 2013 Valdeorras, Spain (selected Waitrose stores and waitrosewinecellar.com, £11.99)

Deeply aromatic, exuberantly fruity red packed with black cherries and mulberries with a hint of liquorice. Suits a light chill.

Petalos mencia Bierzo wine

Petalos 2012/13, Descendientes de J Palacios Bierzo, Spain (Majestic, £18.49 or £13.87 when you buy two until 31 August)

Rich, rounded and juicy with ripe blackberries and a hint of spicy oak from French barrel ageing. Steak wine.

TIPPLE TIP pink and perky…

Two pink champagne offers appeal this week:

Lanson rose brut champagne

The fine, fruity Champagne Lanson Rosé NV, France, down from £35 to £28 at Sainsbury’s until 25 August

Oudinot cuvee rose brut champagne

and dry, raspberryish Oudinot Brut Rosé NV, down from £27 to £22 at Marks Spencer until 7 September.

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