Cíes Islands off Galicia, Spain: Secret Seaside

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Locals call the Cíes Islands the “Galician Caribbean” or the “Galician
Seychelles” and I could see why. A group of boys were running towards the
shore, shrieking as they plunged into the water. The scene may have looked
tropical, but the sea was obviously pretty refreshing, shall we say,
reminding me that I was indeed in north-west Spain.

Stretching for some 1,300 yards (1,200m) between Monteagudo and Faro islands,
Rodas is the longest beach on the Cíes archipelago and by far the nicest.
The boats that bring visitors from the Rías Baixas in summer dock at a jetty
at one end of it, and some people just flop onto the soft, powdery sand and
don’t move all day.

Frankly, I was tempted to do the same, but after an invigorating swim I set
off to explore. There are several walking routes and the islands are popular
with hikers and birdwatchers, particularly in the autumn. Since 2002, the
Cíes have been part of the Galician Atlantic Islands National Park, which
means that the land and the surrounding sea are highly protected – 86 per
cent of the park is underwater. Visitors are limited to 2,200 a day; there
are no hotels – only a campsite – and just a couple of basic restaurants.
There are no bikes, let alone cars.

Although no one lives there now, there are vestiges of a Bronze Age settlement
and over the centuries the islands were inhabited by Celts, Romans and
several orders of monks, not to mention the pirates who took refuge here.

The path curved uphill, flanked by sycamore, holly and scented acacia.
I breathed in the delicate smell of honeysuckle and resisted the urge to
twist a peach off its branch. As this is a national park, you are not
allowed to pick anything or even take shells from the beach.

After another swim it was time to get the boat back to Vigo, about nine miles
(15km) away. We sailed into the Ría de Vigo, one of the deep inlets that
characterise this part of the Galician coast, passing a string of equally
tempting beaches and hundreds of mussel rafts – the mix of salt and fresh
water creates a rich ecosystem that is particularly good for cultivating
mussels and oysters.

Ría de Vigo, one of the deep inlets of the Galician coast (Alamy)

Back in Vigo, I wandered from the port into the lanes of the old town, which
are lined with little bars offering some of the best seafood you’ll ever
taste. As darkness fell, I ordered a glass of albariño, the locally made
white wine, and devoured a plate of the freshest octopus. Later on, the
sweet sound of a violin led me to a regueifa, a bar hidden away in a tiny
square, where I discovered to my amazement that the violinist Begoña Riobó
was playing in the corner with her group, one of the top Galician folk
bands.

While the beach might have fooled me into believing that I was in the
Caribbean, listening to that music, another glass of albariño in my hand,
there was no doubt in mind that I was in Galicia, and I wouldn’t have wanted
to be anywhere else.

The essentials

GETTING THERE

Vueling (0906 754 7541; vueling.com)
flies from Heathrow to Vigo three times a week from April to October, from
£97 return. From June to September, there are regular boats to the Cíes
Islands from Vigo (a less frequent service operates at Easter and in May and
October). The voyage takes about 50 minutes and costs €16/£13 return (0034
986 225272; mardeons.com).
It is best to book online, but tickets are also available at the Mar de Ons
office in the Estación Marítima de Ría in the harbour and through most
hotels. Boats also leave from Baiona and Cangas. Further information at iatlanticas.es
and turismodevigo.org.

WHERE TO STAY

N H Palacio de Vigo £
Right in the centre of Vigo in a grand, early 20th-century building, this
four-star hotel is great value. Handy for shopping and a few minutes’ walk
from the harbour (0034 986 227432; nh-hotels.com;
doubles from €85.50/£68, including breakfast).

A C Palacio Universal ££
Overlooking the harbour, this elegant hotel dates back to the late
19th century. Although many original features have survived the 21st-century
revamp, it is all minimalist slickness in the 68 rooms (449250; marriott.com;
doubles from €102/£83, including breakfast).

Pazo de los Escudos £££
This five-star traditional Galician mansion is right by the beach, just
outside the town centre and has a spa and outdoor pool. The 54 rooms are
divided between the main building and a stylish light-filled new section.
Superior rooms have large balconies with views across the Ría de Vigo
(820820; pazolosescudos.com;
doubles from €164/£133, including breakfast).

THE BEST RESTAURANTS

La Moreneta £
This bar and restaurant just off the Rúa Príncipe is part of the architectural
college. Good for lunch (€8.50/£7 for three courses), tapas or a coffee on
the terrace (Doctor Cadaval 5, Vigo; 886 123342).

La Trastienda del Cuatro ££
This laid-back place near the harbour offers fancy tapas in the buzzy front
section or a romantic dinner in the restaurant at the back. There are
pavement tables too. €20-€30/£16-£24 (Rúa Pablo Morillo 4; 986 115811; latrastiendadelcuatro.com).

Soriano £££
High on a hill just outside the city so you get spectacular views as well as
the best Galician seafood and steaks. Smart but not stuffy, and ideal for a
special occasion. €40-€50/£32-£40 (Chans 25, Bembrive; 481373; asadorsoriano.com).

THE INSIDE TRACK

There’s a campsite overlooking Rodas beach, which costs from €6.30/£5pppn with
your own tent, and from €39/£32 if you hire one. Booking is essential
(687630; campingislascies.com).

Take a snorkel and mask – and binoculars for spotting birds – but note that
scuba diving is strictly controlled. Buceo Balea offers diving and
snorkelling trips, including equipment, for all levels (246294; buceobalea.com).

The Museo do Mar (Avenida Atlántica 160, Alcabre, Vigo; 247750; museodomar.com)
charts the history of Galicia’s links with the sea by means of interactive
exhibits in a vast building that was formerly a fish-canning factory.
Admission €3/£2.40.

WHAT TO AVOID

Don’t get taken by surprise by the naturists: on the smaller beaches here,
nudism is the norm.

The Atlantic winds make it very easy to get sunburnt, even on a cloudy day.
Slather the sunscreen on before you set off.

The A Laxe shopping centre by the harbour looks enormous but there isn’t much
in it. Walk up to the Rúa Príncipe to do your shopping.

Don’t get run over. The lanes in the old town in Vigo may look pedestrianised,
but a lot of them aren’t and taxis swing around corners at quite a speed.

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Cíes Islands off Galicia, Spain: Secret Seaside

The essentials

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