Aug
10
More seafood is landed in A Coruña than anywhere else in Europe. The catch is
auctioned at the quayside market and exported all over the world. Some of
the best, however, appears in the city’s many bars — it’s a perfect place
for a ‘tapas crawl’.
The city’s fishing harbour
If you want to find out more about the Atlantic sealife that ends up on your
plate, I recommend the Aquarium Finisterrae on the edge of the headland.
Nearby is the stunning Domus Museum, which explores the human mind and body
with imaginative interactive exhibits.
On the tip of the headland is the Torre de Hércules, a granite lighthouse
originally built by the Romans, which is still working today and has World
Heritage status. Picasso, who lived in A Coruña as a child, called it the
Torre de Caramelo as it reminded him of a brand of sweets that he liked. He
sketched the tower in 1894, when he was just 13.
The heart of the city is the Plaza de María Pita, a vast square named after
the heroine who fought off an attack by Sir Francis Drake in 1589. Now it is
full of cafés. Two centuries ago, British and Spanish troops fought against
Napoleon’s army in the Battle of Corunna, led by Sir John Moore who died in
the fighting and is buried in the city’s San Carlos Gardens.
You could drive in any direction to explore the wider province of A Coruña.
The dramatic Costa da Morte to the south-west has spectacular beaches and
steep cliffs. Or you could head inland to the historic town of Betanzos,
where the porticoed squares in the old quarter are flanked by grand granite
houses. In the traditional tapas bars, you can try wine from neighbouring
vineyards.
Just north of Betanzos is the magical Fragas do Eume natural park, one of the
last Atlantic forests in Europe, which provides a habitat for more than 100
bird species. Oak, hazelnut, chestnut and holly trees fill the steep valley
of the river Eume, which meanders through the forest to the Caaveiro
monastery which has stood there since the 11th century.
Breathing in that crisp Atlantic air, eating superb food and soaking up the
history – a few days in A Coruña is always an authentic experience.
Tour operators who offer holidays to Galicia include:
You can share your experiences at www.ineedspain.com,
and follow the conversations at www.facebook.com/SpainInUK
or www.twitter.com/Spain_inUK
Visit the Telegraph’s Galicia
homepage to discover more about this secret corner of Green Spain
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