The Original Empanada

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SEPARATED FROM THE REST of Spain by high mountains, Galicia was, until a few decades ago, entirely isolated and the country’s poorest region. The only way out of poverty was emigration. That is why Galician empanadas—square pieces cut from a large, crusty pie—are among the most widespread snacks all over Spain and as far away as Brazil, Mexico, Argentina, Venezuela and Cuba, where Galician emigrants opened restaurants and bars. Elsewhere the small turnover-type versions, empanadillas, have become common, but in Galicia it is the large pie that can be seen in all the bakeries. It is cut into portion-size squares …

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